I want to start off by saying that all PMU techniques involving a needle and PMU ink, or pigment, is permanent. There has been much controversy, in the USA especially, over permanent makeup versus semi-permanent makeup. Semi-permanent is when the tattoo fades over 1-3 years, but still some particles and color can remain in the skin longer. Permanent makeup is designed to last longer.
In Europe there is actually a legal definition separating both semi-permanent makeup, SPMU, and Permanent Makeup, PMU. The reason for this is to avoid false advertising, that is to inform the client that their tattoo will fade in 1-3 years. In the USA is there is no such legal definition, but you will hear a lot of PMU artists get angry at the mention of SPMU, because it’s misleading the client to believe that the entire tattoo will completely fade over time. Confusing, right? I agree!
The difference between PMU and SPMU is saturation. SPMU is a less saturated technique, meaning we do less passes over the skin and/or use a dilution solution in our pigment. With PMU we are using more saturation, more and more passes over the skin, or drilling in the pigment with slow steady hand movements. Every artist has their style, and every client has their taste. I use both saturation and less saturation in my techniques., depending on what look I am going for.
Enter Lip Blush Tattoo
Lip blushing is a form of lip tattoo that closely resembles a lip tint, or lip gloss. It is applied using a very fine single needle with minimal saturation. When I perform the Lip Blush service, I turn my machine down to a low speed from 5-6 volts. This is to be sure that my needle does not work so fast in the skin, and that I can get separation of the pixels of pigment that I am implanting in the lips. I want space between my pixels because as the pigment heals in the skin, the pixels blend into the lips, forming a light gloss effect.
I do not line the lips using the lip-lining or contour technique. I keep my client’s lips very natural and with their original shape. Instead of lining the lips, I use a very light shading technique that I developed. It’s a specific way of holding the lips, stretching, and hand movements to fade the lip color into the lip line.
I can use any color for Lip Blush. I love the deep reds and deep pinks and purples. Because of the low levels of saturation, the healed effect is like having a gorgeous lip tint. For my clients who like an even more natural look, I use the lighter shades of pinks, and even browns. The healed result is perfectly natural and bare, but the lips are fuller and shapelier. What a lot of people don’t realize is that the light needle work naturally induces collagen production in the lips, resulting in a permanent lip plump. It’s like getting lip fillers without the injections!
About Permanent Lips
This technique I call Full Matte Lipstick Effect. The effect is like having permanent lipstick. It’s a fuller and more saturated look, perfect for anyone who would like to have the permanent lipstick effect.
Full Matte Lipstick is done by lining the lips with more saturation. We can use anywhere from a single needle to a 3 round liner needle. Anything bigger than this, in my opinion, is going against current norms and is too unnatural. It’s what I consider to be old fashioned, and results in a thicker healed lip line. Natural PMU should be done with smaller needle configurations on the lip line.
When it comes to filling in the color on the lips, larger needle configurations are great as the work can go much faster. We can use 9 magnum needles if we are pressed for time or have larger lips to color. I often use the single 1 round liner needle, which takes longer, but gives a mistier effect. Depending on my client and her skin, I choose my needles accordingly.
When it comes to saturation, with the full matte lipstick technique, we are wanting to fully saturate the lips with pigment. This will heal into a lipstick look for our clients. Full Matte Lips will last anywhere from 3-5 years, and will require touch ups to maintain.
I hope this is helpful information for my readers to use when deciding on what look is best for them, and for my students to choose what look is best for their clients
I offer in person and online training:
For new clients who wish to get a service please call:
New York (212) 518-3754
Houston (281) 898-8744